A dermatologist friend of mine, Dr. Benabio, writes an excellent blog that I think everyone should be reading–The Derm Blog. He was also recently quoted in O, the Oprah Magazine (so you know he’s got to be good). I decided to get his expert opinion on some skincare questions and share them all with you.
What is the best way to treat oily/combination skin without drying out your skin?
The key is to not overdo it. Some people have skin that is so oily that it almost never gets dry and flaky. If, however, your skin has a tendency to flake, then you might be using cleansers that are too harsh or you might be over-scrubbing. I recommend starting by cleansing your face in the morning with a product meant for combination skin such as Olay Daily Facials Cleansing Cloths for Combination Skin. You can then use a toner if you wish, but I think they are often unnecessary. If you like the feel of a toner after washing, then I recommend something mild like Peter Thomas Roth’s Oxygen Mist. Then apply a non-greasy sunscreen before applying your makeup. I recommend Olay Complete Defense Daily UV Moisturizer SPF 30 Sensitive Skin or Aveeno Positively Ageless Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 with Shiitake Mushroom extract. At night, wash off all your makeup with the Oil of Olay Cleansing Cloths. Apply a moisturizer for oily skin such as Skinceuticals Renew Overnight Oily Cream or Oil of Olay Regenerist.
I occasionally find that when I use products meant to control sebum, that sebum seems to be produced even more. How can I stop that awful shine in my T-zone without messing up my skin?
Believe it or not, you are lucky. Oily skin is easier to manage and often appears younger than dry, irritated skin. You just need to focus on products that will reduce your skin’s natural oils. In the morning, use a cleanser for oily skin such as Neutrogena Pore Refining Cleanser. You also probably like using toners and can tolerate one like Kiehl’s Tea Tree Oil Toner. The next product is the important one: Apply an oil control gel such as Ferndale Clinac O.C. Oil Control Gel before applying your sunscreen and makeup. This will prevent that oily shine from surfacing. At night, use the same cleanser. You could also try a facial scrub once a week, such as Philosophy Microdelivery peel.
Which skincare products do you recommend for: acne-prone skin, dry skin, combination skin?
For acne-prone skin use a salicylic acid cleanser such as Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash. Then apply a benzoyl peroxide cream such as Oxy Balance with 5% benzoyl peroxide (5% is just as effective as 10% and is a lot less irritating).
For dry skin, use a cleansing cream like Noxzema Cleansing Cream. Never use a toner, as this will likely dry out your skin further. Then use a moisturizer like Eucerin Sensitive Facial Skin Q10 with SPF 15. You should try to moisturize one more time during the day if possible.
Which product do you feel is the most over rated and which is the best but seems under valued?
Overrated: Strivectin (the “better than Botox?” cream). It’s not.
Undervalued: prescription retin-A creams like Renova.
Can you give 3 do’s and don’ts for skin care?
Do: Wear a broad- spectrum sunscreen every day. Don’t believe all the hype that lots of sun is good for you. See my post on tanning for much more detail.
Do: Wash your makeup off completely every night. It can lead to clogged pores, pimples, and even skin infections.
Do: Realize that women and men even in their 20’s can get melanoma. Check your skin regularly and see a physician if you have a changing or concerning mole.
Don’t: waste money on products that are not designed for your particular skin. Many women with dry skin waste money on toners while women with oily skin waste money on expensive moisturizers. Know what your skin needs and choose products accordingly. Also, remember that many over-the-counter skin care products are just as effective as more expensive designer products.
Don’t: use a magnifying mirror and tweezers to find and pick at pimples or other minor skin blemishes. I promise you, you will only make it worse.
Don’t: get medical advice or treatments, including Botox, fillers, and lasers from a non-professional. Be sure that a board certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon is present if you are going to have any invasive cosmetic procedures performed.
Good advice,but I had no idea that using a toner would dry out your skin. Well you learn something new everyday!
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shopinchic - April 28th, 2008 at 11:18 pmNote-worthy advice! Thanks for taking the time to provide this information!!
Anonymous - May 2nd, 2008 at 5:50 pmSuch great advice! But for the acne prone skin suggestions, I thought you were either supposed to just use salicylic acid or just benzoyl peroxide depending on which worked with your skin better never both. Or am I wrong?
Anonymous - May 3rd, 2008 at 12:15 am[...] reviews you may like: 5 Skincare Questions for Dermatologist Dr. Benabio Freeze 24/7 Freeze & Go Pattern Body [...]
Mineralistic Makeup Giveaway | A Girl's Gotta Spa Beauty Blog! - July 16th, 2008 at 11:25 pmGreat Advice! I’m a licensed Aesthetician and toners come up in questions all the time! I don’t think they are ALWAYS necessary either. And it’s nice to see that the doctor has the same opinion. Every skin type is unique and finding the right blend of products take a little patience but is well worth it.
Self Tanning Queen - June 1st, 2009 at 1:22 pmAgree 100% with his overrated and undervalued product comments. Shhhh – Retin-A is my secret weapon!
Suzy - August 21st, 2009 at 9:23 amThis is great advice! I would love to find out what would be great products to use with ezcema!
Jennifer C. - August 22nd, 2009 at 10:32 amI agree with the Dr. that toners are unnecessary. Why do skin care companies even make them? Probably to have an extra item to sale.
Tina - August 22nd, 2009 at 12:04 pmi am one of those people with extra oily and acne prone skin… weird enough, my t-zone, that swims in oil right now, dries out during winter. i guess i need 2 sets of cream for warm and cold seasons.
i actually like some toners- I tried Mlab toner and it made my skin feel so smooth and clean- no cleanser ever gave me that feeling!
Anna S. - August 22nd, 2009 at 12:31 pmi have always had a hard time with my skin. I was told it was genetic. My mother had a real bad face problem also. i am 27 and still the acne has not went away. Some times I just want to cry. It hurt and it is sore. I have tried so many things. What can I do. I clean my face and then it starts drying out with all products i have tried .HELP!
Vanessa Flores - August 23rd, 2009 at 10:19 amVanessa, you are most likely using the wrong products for your skin type. You have to first figure out your skin type to know what to use. It isn’t as simple as normal, dry, combination. Renee Rouleau has a chart to help you figure out what you are so you know what you should be using: http://www.reneerouleau.com/Prescription.aspx
Shannon - August 23rd, 2009 at 10:22 amShannon Thank you . It looks like I am type 1.OILY / CLOGGED PORES / SEVERE ALL-OVER BREAKOUTS
I try to look for new things, that will help me. If I can find something that realy works I would be happy. i just hope that my daughter does not get the same thing. My sons either. I was looking at the treatments and it looks like something that would work. I just know that I just could not afford something like that. it is just to bad that i am not rich. With the economy like this I have to worry about school clothes and such. I hope that i will ge able to get something like this in the near future. You know and I did not check if it has a money back gaurentee. If it does , buying it would not be so scary. I have just waisted so much time and money on other products.
Vanessa Flores - August 23rd, 2009 at 10:48 ami promise to my skin to try and not over-scrub it anymore.
Anna S. - August 23rd, 2009 at 5:52 pmGot some great advice there~As I didn’t know that the cheaper versions of skin care items work just as good as the more expensive ones. I will have to look at some when I go to the store.
Deb Klein - August 23rd, 2009 at 7:30 pmI have never found anything cheap that will work on my skin. It is imposible It feels some time that I will never get the relief.
Vanessa Flores - August 23rd, 2009 at 10:50 pmAs an esthetician, I have to disagree with using an Olay cleansing cloth. I have spent hours tweezing out the fibers of these things on some clients who have oily skin and larger pores. And if the fibers are in there long enough, they develop an odor from the body trying to break it down.
Kimberly S. - October 12th, 2009 at 10:16 amAny recommendations for sensitive skin. I haven’t been successful using the Oil of Olay products.
Sylvia - January 11th, 2010 at 1:22 pmI agree that using an astringent based toner is bad. But many brands have hydrating, alcohol free toners that work amazingly to combat redness, dryness, and sensitivity. Neutrogena, Ling Skin Care, SKII all have products like this. My esthetician was telling me that if you can use gentle products to treat acne, rather than harsh acids, your skin will react better as the acids are too drying sometimes and in turn cause more oily deposits and breakouts.
Michele - January 18th, 2010 at 7:14 am