Lead stylist (and Ted Gibson protege)  Devin Toth created easy, simple, clean but glamorous hair at Carmen Marc Valvo AW11.  The look was inspired by a ballerina, but softer.   Ted Gibson Styling Sheets were used to remove any excess oil in the hair, it was parted half up, half down, the top part was then finger combed to the back, twisted into a bun and secured with pins.  It was very pretty, but not too elegant. 

~Gail

Gail Lewis

Gail is at times a model, most of the time a blogger, but always a beauty junkie.

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It’s almost that time of year again! In just a few short weeks Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week will be upon us once again. As we have in the past, A Girl’s Gotta Spa! will be there to recap beauty trends and try to get you as much behind the scenes info. as possible!

I thought it would be fun to let you in on the inner workings of an expert hairstylist working the shows at fashion week, and who better than my friend Pearson Knight who has recapped trends for us the last few seasons? Pearson works with the Aveda team at some pretty rockin shows. So enjoy some of his backstage photos that he shared with me and hear all of the fun and interesting tidbits of the intense and exciting week that is Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week!

Shannon: When assigned to do hair for runway shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, how much notice are you given regarding which designers you’ll be working with?
Pearson: Fashion Week is such a crazy venue, week and experience that it doesn’t surprise me everything is done on the fly. I usually get my schedule for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week just a few weeks prior to the shows. The schedule, teams and times are constantly changing as we get closer to go time! There are some staple shows every season which gives a chance to get to know the designers style more intimately to help produce better results creatively. Although, having new designers on the schedule is always exciting and challenging.

Shannon: How far in advance does the lead hairstylist prep you on the hairstyle for a particular runway show?
Pearson: I have been fortunate to have been the Lead Stylist, Assistant to Lead and Team Member. The prepping of the team is done on the first model that shows up for the show as it starts. No pre-knowledge goes beyond the Lead, Assist and Designer until go time! 

Shannon: How many tests do you go through and is the designer present?
Pearson: I have been on numerous tests with many designers and each one is different. Usually two days before the show, but the designer is almost always very present and involved in the hair testing. Some designers have been very particular on how it should look or an idea for the vision of their show. Other designers have given total room creatively for the ability to drive a look. Some designers have loved the first look done on the test model and others have been a grueling few hours of banging out look after look trying to find that perfect match for their collection. I have also led some shows where the test schedule was canceled and the looks were created on the spot at show time. Got to be ready!

Shannon: Runway shows at fashion week notoriously start late. Has a runway show ever run so far behind that it intersected with another show you needed to be backstage for?
Pearson: I have definitely needed to be at more than one place at a time during fashion week. Somehow with the teams being amazing it always works out even as stressful as it can get in the moment. So much goes into starting on time. The make up prep, hair prep, wardrobe, the run through, the show previous’ holding crowd and models, models being on time, as well as snow storms and traffic. We share 4 hours together to get all that done!

Shannon: Can you describe to the readers a typical day backstage during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week?
Pearson: As soon as production has the space ready and we can enter the backstage we get set up. We typically eat a little of the catered food and meet each other as we wait like hunters for the first model to start the prep frenzy. As soon as the first model arrives the Lead Stylist will do the look as the team gathers around to learn the look. Usually we set up in teams of 2 or 3 stylist per model to get the work done as fast as possible. Everything usually goes smooth as butter for a while as we laugh and enjoy the work. Then production people start yelling for first looks and we have to stop what we are doing and let the models go. You only hope the model finds you so you can finish what is running around backstage half done. The Lead starts to feel the pressure as most of the press starts to file in right about the same time production tells us Marc Jacobs’ show ran late and 7 models will show up 5 minutes before they walk. The press interviews, photographers and camera crews are filling the space as we get cramped while production people are constantly yell how many minutes we have left. If you’re anything like me, you live for the pressure of perfection and precision in the final 20 minutes before show time. It is so intense!

Finally the models head to wardrobe and begins the line up as we run around doing last minute touch ups as they get dressed and line up. The Lead is right up front typically with the designer being the last to overlook the creation before it hits the runway. The 3 hours of prep is done and the show starts. There is an energy backstage that is indescribable the whole time, but especially right when it ends. Live it, love it!

Shannon: Of all of the designers you have worked with, who has been the most creative when it comes to hair and why?
Pearson: This is a tough question because some designers are more aggressive and some more elegant, but hands down my favorite show is Rodarte every season. The sisters are so creative and make sure the runway, make up and hair are just as amazing as their collection. It is always so fresh!

Shannon: Who is one designer that you have not yet worked with, but would like to?
Pearson: Although I unfortunately will not be able to meet him, I would love to work for Alexander McQueen. My favorite. He is brilliant for so many reasons.

Shannon: You always give A Girl’s Gotta Spa! readers a great hair trends recap each season, this time we’d love a prediction! What do you predict the look will be for AW11/12?
Pearson: I predict for Fall/Winter 2011/2012 we will continue to see a lot of texture in hair. The trend of wave, curl and natural texture in daily wear is still on the rise. The blend of 40′s styling with 80′s texture and size was great, but we will move more towards modern appeal all the way. This runway season will be a mix of hair being styled up creatively with big texture and some naturally down staying soft. Looking forward to a great season.

Be sure to follow Pearson Knight on Twitter: @1Pearson1

Like him on Facebook: Facebook.com/PKHair
Check out his website: www.PKHair.com

To keep up with all of our fashion week ramblings like us and follow us, as well!
Facebook: A Girl’s Gotta Spa!
Twitter: @AGirlsGottaSpa @ShannonNelson and @GailSLewis

Shannon Nelson

Shannon Nelson launched A Girl's Gotta Spa! in 2005. She currently works with beauty brands as a social media consultant, freelance writes for magazines and is a public speaker at beauty industry conferences.

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My week at Fashion Week started out with a bang! First was the largest fashion show ever, Fashion’s Night Out, and then the new location for the tents. I think moving the tents from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center threw everyone off a bit, but I thought it was a cool area with total upgraded work space. I was immediately thrown into a 12 hour day with 3 hours sleep on day 1. I had the pleasure of styling Maggie Grace’s hair so that she could attend Christian Siriano’s show. When I saw the Christian Siriano dress she had chosen to wear, I decided on a “lived in-last night’s upstyle” with some pieces falling out to framed her up. What can I say she is as sweet as she is beautiful. I enjoyed my time with her.

One of the many great shows was Jason Wu. I always enjoy working his shows with everyone. He seems to usually book some of my favorite friends like Joan Smalls and Aline Weber. I think he is extremely talented and I really like his collections. We threw in a side part and brought everything to the back where pieces of fabric from his collection were twisted and braided into four sections. We then loosely brought them under themselves and pinned, creating a soft, clean look with unique elegance. It was a great show.

Milk Studios is so fresh and that’s where Suno was held. The hair was fun with a mixture of sleek and dry texture. We set the hair with Aveda Control Force and irons. We then built the back shape by twisting and looping sections back and forth pinning them on top of each other. The sides we brought back tight then secured in the back with Aveda’s Retexturing Gel giving a wet sleek appearance with shine. Finally we loosely placed the top up and back in an “S” pattern with a rockabilly feel giving the look a lot of playfulness, like the collection, which I was into. This show was a lot of fun!

Last but not least, everybody knows I love Rodarte! We started the show back in the original space I first worked with them many seasons back, which was cool. They are so innovative and unique. I look forward to the girls every season! The hair was simple, but very effective. We blew the hair out first with Aveda’s Air Control to give a bit of texture and volume. Then with a deep side part and a draped loose bang we secured it with very interesting barrettes. The collection’s pattern and hair gave off a strong beautiful 70′s look. The girls know stuff…so watch out, 70′s maybe the new black!

I have exciting news about putting 100% of my energy into PKHair.com. To start, I will be focused on Editorial, Runway, Inspiration, and International Salon Consulting. This is just a teaser…because kids ain’t ready for this! Keep up with me on Twitter @1Pearson1 or on Facebook.com/pkhair for more detailed updates!

Once again thank you to A Girls Gotta Spa!, all the designers, models, friends, photographers, press, Aveda, PR, Production, Hair and Makeup, and New York City for another great season. I always have a good time, thank you for letting me be a part of it!

Photos (c) Pearson Knight.

Shannon Nelson

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When temperatures drop this Fall/Winter, haircolor will stay warm with dark chocolate brunettes, deep mahogany redheads and golden blondes. Tracey Cunningham, Redken Creative Consultant for Color has the latest in Fall haircolor trends and professional haircolor products to achieve these trends and get the hottest looks of the season.

“It’s easy to update your look from summer to fall,” explains Cunningham. “I warm my clients’ shades up in the Fall/Winter season with brilliant copper-red shades which is why I love Redken’s new Color Fusion Rubilane Collection. It creates the perfect sophisticated and modern copper-red shades.

Fall/Winter 2010 Trend #1: Brunettes
”For my brunette clients, I plan to keep their base a dark chocolate truffle hue but you’ll see a lot of thick golden highlights starting from the mid-section of their hair. Let it be fun and flirty in the winter months to spice up your look, think Lily Aldridge for this look!” – Tracey Cunningham

Fall/Winter 2010 Trend #2: Redheads
“Va va voom color! Redheads this Fall/Winter will lean towards a single process tone, with no highlights just vibrant deep mahogany tones. For this must-have look of the season, think Julianne Moore. She has the most luscious shade of red that’s full of intense shine.” – Tracey Cunningham

Fall/Winter 2010 Trend #3: Blondes
“The Fall/Winter blonde will be a California blonde with the base a shade darker to give some dimension to the look. The blonde locks will be light and golden to compliment your client’s look of the season. This look is so fun and can be worn from season to season! Think Kate Bosworth for this blonde shade, it pops on her and looks great with a red lip.” – Tracey Cunningham

“To complete the Fall/Winter haircolor story, Redken is launching the new Color Fusion Rubilane Collection creating warm and modern brunettes and redheads,” states Cunningham. “The six new easy-to-use, versatile shades provide gorgeous copper-red results for women looking for a range of perfect copper colors that are more vibrant and last longer.”

Redken’s new Color Fusion Rubilane Collection features Colorbond Technology:
• High Tenacity Dyes that lock together inside the hair
• Ceramide that repairs the surface and seals the hair to protect the beauty of the color
• Cationic Conditioners that nourish and smooth the hair
• Coconut Oil that helps form a protective barrier against water

People looking for these shades should ask their colorist about the following shades:

Brunette:
Ask for NEW Color Fusion 4Cb for the base and Blonde Icing Power Lift for soft golden highlights.

Redhead:
Ask for NEW Color Fusion 4C and 5Cc for beautiful, vibrant copper-red tones.

Blonde:
Ask for Color Fusion 8Gg and Color Fusion for the base and Blonde Icing Power Lift for beach blonde highlights.

Learn more about hairstyle trends, how-to’s from hair care experts and more at www.Redken.com.

Love this post? Be sure to subscribe to A Girl’s Gotta Spa!

*Content submitted by Redken.

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Shannon Nelson

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As I’ve been doing for the last few seasons, I’ve asked celebrity hairstylist Pearson Knight to recap the hair trends he saw while working backstage at New York Fashion Week. For Fall/Winter 2010 Pearson recaps Ports 1961, Rodarte and Elisa Palomino. You can also find many more behind the scenes pictures on Pearson’s Facebook fan page.

Well another solid season of show after show after show at NYFW Fall/Winter 2010. Some of my favorite friends, models, designers and teams make it all worth the insanity backstage. The week started out with testing at Ports 1961′s studio where we dialed in the look for the show. As I predicted last fall, the hair is moving a bit away from sleek/shine to big and textured. Ports 1961 and I pushed through an 80′s Perm look for the show. Backstage was insane as we had half the team due to the airports being closed because of a snowstorm. The look required very small curling irons, vertically placed and backcombed. On the runway it was wicked. We set the hair with Aveda’s Volumizing Tonic, Air Control and Aveda’s new strong spray Control Force set to launch this June. The collection, runway and looks were amazing. It was Vogue.com‘s first live feed show and can be seen there.

My next favorite is Rodarte, of course. I always look forward to the sisters. I think they are so amazing and talented. The runway presentation, collection, hair and make up are always so unique. This season they had high heels that lit up as the models walked, pretty fresh right? The hair was blown out with Aveda Smooth Infusion Glossing Straightener then flat ironed. Then there were 3 rows of braids inside the look to act as an anchor for antique metal flowers to be placed. The hair was secured at the nape with hair pins to ensure a look that was very contour with the head and neck shape. We finished the look with Aveda’s Control Force. The looks were strong and I really get fired up for Rodarte every season.

Last but not least was Elisa Palomino. She is a long time veteran with Diane Von Furstenberg and has now released her own collection. It was awesome! We used extension hair to achieve very big hair. We started setting the hair by alternating curling one section then crimping the next. We used Volumizing Tonic, Pure Abundance Hair Potion and Air Control. After systematically backcombing the sections and adding the extensions for bulk, we pinned it into place and added quite large flowers in the hair. The hair, make up, collection and venue had strong unison. The models looked like dolls. The hair was off the beaten path of typical runway hair so a lot of fun for me.

This season show a variety of color in the collections, diversity in the hair and creative vibe in the air. Any of these looks can be used, altered, toned down or experimented with at home. My suggestion would be to print out a picture and take it to your favorite stylist and ask how to re-create it! I always like to say, “Thanks!”

Find Pearson Knight online:

Twitter
Website
Facebook

Shannon Nelson

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So I landed in NYC for Fashion Week just a few days after returning to the country. I had been in Bali, Indonesia, for 3 months consulting, training, styling and launching a brand new salon for the talented supermodel/actress Navia Nguyen. The lobby has a fresh juice bar, music and internet while the salon is high energy and decorated with hair stations and pedicure chairs with screens playing Fashion TV. The upstairs is a completely different vibe with two wet rooms for spa scrubs, showers, couple massage room, multiple massage tables, facial and waxing rooms and an amazing staff. The salon is called Amo Beauty and Spa and is a must if traveling to Bali.

Ports 1961
I went straight from the plane completely jet lagged to Ports 1961′s studio to do the test looks for the show. It was great to lead their show and see the Ports team again. I have worked with them the last few seasons and get inspired by and with them. This season the look was very constructed, sleek, and profound. The inspiration was Japanese for her collection so we wanted the hair up and expose the beauty of the neck. The collection, hair and makeup were very strong in unison. We took the top section of the hair and secured it out of the way. Then we took the sides and back into a ponytail and then a braid. The braid was placed back and forth flat against the head and pinned to create a square anchor. The top section was the backcombed and smoothed bringing it seamless with the side, brought over the braid, and then tucked under into the braid. We wanted gradual volume starting at the forehead building through the shape. I feel it looked strong and elegant on the runway with Tia’s collection.

Jason Wu
My next favorite and new beat on the street, is Jason Wu. It was amazing to work with him and the team. The venue was beautiful and the hair fun to achieve. I would say it was a great show. Jason’s runway look for SS10 was rich with texture and materials so the look created was one that was a sculpted, voluminous chignon with a sheer black ribbon woven into the hair. This resulted in a look that was both feminine and elegant yet had an “edge” to it.

Rodarte
Alright you would think that maybe out of 6 seasons with Rodarte I would know what to expect or may be disappointed at some point. The sisters have out done it again! And I cannot forget to mention Odile Gilbert who created the look for the hair. This hairstyle was created with only a blow dryer and textured with volumizing tonic, pure abundance hair potion and air control from Aveda. We brought all the hair back giving the front strength. Then the back was structured flat and wide with texture into a tail. The finishing touch was lacing the look with torn black wool. The runway light and smoke were quite the touch that made this the most exciting for me. After the show I went to the sister’s studio to style their hair for the after party and was able to get a second look at the detail involved in the clothes……insane!

Argentina
The Argentina show was tons of fun. I love working with Jon Reyman the talent and creator of Beautyvt.com. This show was in the tents and packed backstage with press and models. There were 4 looks for this show and 45 models. It was really high energy and a great team. Some of the looks involved braids, some chignons and some super textured side ponytails. The collections were diverse and it made the show extremely fun to work on.

This Spring/Summer season had quite a bit of hair accessories woven into different versions of chignons. I think spring is a time for newness and feeling fresh and throwing that hair up in a constructed way. Incorporating some accessories is a great way to express that feeling! My favorite this Fashion Week was destroying Andrea Lustig from Glamour Magazine’s headband to braid it into the chignon we created for her to attend the NY Philharmonic Opener. All in all it was a great season with great teams and talent again.

Where you can find Pearson Knight:

Website: PKhair.com
Twitter: @1Pearson1
Facebook Fan Page: PKhair

Shannon Nelson

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Lead Hair Stylist for Sebastian Professional, Thomas Dunkin, was backstage at Costello Tagliapietra for their Spring Summer 2010 show yesterday at Milk Studios in Chelsea. I love the look he created with soft curls and I think across the board at many SS10 runway shows we’ll be seeing more “feminine & romantic” hair style looks for the upcoming season.

Costello Tagliapietra’s Spring ’10 beauty look is a seamless combination of elegance, youthfulness, natural beauty and romance. The hair, both feminine and fresh, is loosely inspired by the traditional roll style from the 40s with soft curls that sit just above the shoulder. To put a modern twist on a ‘40s staple, Thomas recommends a method of building texture and shape with techniques that keep the hair looking soft, romantic and not too “done.” Finish with an elastic touchable texturizer or flexible shine spray to create a look that’s elegant yet playful. Here’s how to create your own 40s inspired faux bob:

1. Apply Sebastian Professional Texturizer to damp hair; distribute evenly throughout.
2. Blow hair out straight with a medium to large-sized round brush.
3. Spray hair with a flexible hairspray for added texture, section hair, curl it with a medium-sized barrel curling iron and set.
4. Take out pins, gently brush out the curls and then roll hair under, section by section, fastening it under at the neck with bobby pins.
5. Apply Microweb Fiber to hands and gently work through the front of the hair to create an imperfect, lived-in effect. Finish by misting with a strong-hold hairspray.

How to Get the Look with Sebastian Professional:

To create the ultimate faux bob, Thomas Dunkin suggests building texture in phases using a combination of soft, flexible texturizers and light, brushable hairsprays. Try:

* Texturizer – Flexible bodifying liquigel for bendable texture ($15.95)
* Microweb Fiber – Elastic texturizer for malleable, touchable texture ($18.95)
* ReShaper – Brushable, humidity-resistant strong hold hairspray ($16.50)
* Shine Define – The ultimate versatile hairspray for shine and flexible hold ($15.95)

To learn more about these products, please visit www.sebastianprofessional.com.

Shannon Nelson

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The Look:
The look is Eva Peron meets Juliet Lewis; giving the ’40s a more a modern feel and shape.

Get the Look/Step-by-Step:

• Step 1: Create a deep side part and section hair off behind the ear. Spray with Air Control Hair Spray and brush through to smooth.

• Step 2: Create a high pony tail right above the right ear and secure in place with an elastic.

• Step 3: Divide pony in half and roll each section around a “rat” (small hair sponge), creating a cylinder-like shape. Hold in place with pins and spray with Air Control Hair Spray.

• Step 4: Repeat with other section of pony tail, creating a bow-like shape.

• Step 5: Apply a small amount of Aveda Light Elements Defining Whip throughout remaining section of hair on other side of the head. Spray with Air Control Hair Spray before wrapping hair down and around the back of the head along the hair line, and up around the base of the pony tail. Secure with pins throughout to keep in place.

Aveda Products Used:
Air Control Hair Spray
Light Elements Defining Whip
(www.aveda.com)


*Photo Credit: Style.com & Maria Valentino

Shannon Nelson

Shannon Nelson launched A Girl's Gotta Spa! in 2005. She currently works with beauty brands as a social media consultant, freelance writes for magazines and is a public speaker at beauty industry conferences.

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